I would love to hear the effects all those knobs have on the tone.

I’ve had my printer just a bit under a year and I print almost weekly (ALOT more in the beginning). I’ve had to replace the wash three times (?), and I’ve used ~ 3.5 gallons of alcohol. I use a spray bottle to clean everything up (tools, work area, build plate, + the occasional tank clean), so I tend to use a lot as I don’t like resin hanging around. The cost isn’t much worse than a bottle of resin at $30 for 1gal on amazon so while it adds cost it’s not too much. You might also look into water washable resin but I have no experience with it so I can’t recommend it one way or the other.

Oh speaking up cleanup and build support removal don’t forget eye protection and maybe an n95 mask (the smell can be strong from both the resin and alcohol). You’re playing chemist here with some smelly chemicals.

I’ve had both the wired and wireless pik and the wireless one is my favorite even though the reservoir is smaller. I like that can take it into the shower and do my flossing there and it feels less messy somehow.

This is where I started with my resin 3d printing. I have an FDM as well and the the resin printer blows it out of the water in terms of detail and speed.

Small tip I’ve learned about the washing/cure station is to let your prints dry after taking them out of the wash before placing them on the curing station. This will prevent resin from curing on the platform and making a mess.

Know that you will need a lot more than just the printer and washing station though. You want gloves (by the box), 91%+ alcohol (by the gallon), some silicon mats to work on, microfiber towels (to clean your FEP), and lots and lots of paper towels. If you are concerned about fumes you’ll want to look into ventilation. I guess what I’m saying is it’s messy! It’s not hard though and the models you get are amazing, my gaming group loves me and my GM is living out his childhood gaming dreams.