One of the first services on my server was nextcloud in docker container from lsio. Never had problems so there was no need to try AIO, but so many people recommend that, it will be my next setup if this one fails me

Correct and sounds like the best of both worlds

I’ll grab a kitchen sponge

You can just cut 30x30 mm peace and zip-tie it over filament 😉

Enclosure will protect printer from dust and it will also keep the ambient temperature more stable. Dont make it hermetic sealed, better add few holes on the front and few on the back for example. I have a low rpm fan with dust filter because I mostly print PLA and in long prints (12h+) temperature can go a bit too high if there is no airflow at all. Keep in mind that enclosure should be removed sometimes for mintainance, removable sides is what you should look for.

You can leave filament on the printer, but if you dont use it for a long time it could get wet and then you have to dry it. Keep the rest of the spools in plastic sealed box or bag and put some silica gel inside.

Full calibration should be done once, but fine tuning when you face some issues or when you change to different brand or filament type. It depends how well the printer is assembled and how experienced you are, it can take only 5 min every few months, but begginers can spend days sometimes.

Extra tips: clean your rails and wheels whenever you can (once a month at least) for dusty garage. Get a kitchen sponge, drill a hole in it and guide filament trough the hole to remove any dust before extruder.

Welcome to the most fun hoby and happy printing!

For 9 disks I would need to print a bigger case, but this one suits me well for now 😉

He is horny 😂

Daily backup to backblaze b2 and also to local storage with kopia. Its been running for a year I think, no issues at all. I didnt need a real backup yet, just did some restore tests so far

If OP cant use more than one disk at once, how can they benefit from mergerfs?

In my country pi4 8GB ram with PSU 130€ and then you need SD card and/or SSD

Adding my data as well:

My server is diy desktop pc - mbo MSI Z270-A PRO with celeron G3930 and 16GB RAM, 3x SSD on 550W PSU, idles at 23W. After adding another 3.5" HDD consuption went up to 34W. 34W in Ctoatia is around 34€ a year.

Some SFF PCs are at 10-15W. SBCs like rpi should be below 10 W, but dont think you can get anything new for 80€

Your cpu supports quick sync so I bet you are good without gpu. Try it yourself before buying one, you also drain less power

-4c is extreemly cold, get thermometer inside of enclosure and leave your heatbed on until it reaches 10-15C before you start printing. Even better get enclosure heater. Id also bump nozzle temp to the highest marked on your spool.

Why lower if you print everything at the same layer height?

Interesting. This is new to me and it looks like it could work. It could be usefull if you print with 0.6 nozzle at 0.6 mm width and then in a corner narrow it down to 0.4 mm

20x20x20 cm part can take a day to print. Speed matters ofc, but its not just about acceleration and max speed. Bigger nozzle can move slower and still print faster. Working printer prints faster than non working lol. Prusa is amazing, but be aware mini + is bed slinger with only one side of X gantry supported. I dont like that, but its still much better than ender like machines just because its built better and you get better support instead of faulty parts and design flaws. But if you are more into moding and debugging, enders are so cheap and they will make sure you know where is your allen key screwdriver. Both ways you can achieve amazing prints and have loads of fun. Even if you go for more expensive machine be prepared for begginer failures which can be quite frustrating.

This might be completely diferent thing and it could be fixed already. Few months ago there was an update (debian bullseye i think) that messed up usb IDs on rasberries. It was mainsail os for 3D printer in my case and there was a fix that I never got working so I reinstalled OS and didnt update after that. I believe it was something with uuid, but better check yourself and never trust my words lol I hope someone knows more about that because it reminds me on the pain I had

You are too close everywhere. Im not using abl, but dont expect perfection from it. I believe if you increase offset it will be good everywhere. Machine can deal with small error, but not if its too much

In all metal hotend ptfe should not go all the way to the nozzle. Nozzle should be tightened against the heat break to stop heat from going upwards. Ptfe just guides the filament, upper area is not heated and therefore cant leak unlike ender style hot end that requires pressure between ptfe tube and heated nozzle.

❤️ PTP ❤️ Id wait 5 years if needed

Aha thx

Is streamio jellyfin alternative?