Eyyy, someone else playing with PHA!
I have a bunch of PHA commentary (and experimentation) over on the kbin 3d-printing group:
https://kbin.social/m/3DPrinting/t/40862/PHA-filament-heat-resistance-testing
Member of multiple generations of migration waves. Also @moira and formerly solarbird on reddit. If federation starts working, I’ll probably mostly interact from mastodon, or may even set up my own kbin. (Which is what I did with Mastodon.) We’ll see. _
Eyyy, someone else playing with PHA!
I have a bunch of PHA commentary (and experimentation) over on the kbin 3d-printing group:
https://kbin.social/m/3DPrinting/t/40862/PHA-filament-heat-resistance-testing
Or stash bricks of it in dead salt mines.
Seriously. All the carbon in it comes from plants which means it came from CO2 in the atmosphere. Stored this way, it’s a medium-term (as in hundreds of years) carbon store.
My next printer will be multifilament _
I’m already doing like four-colour prints with my 3v2 but obviously there are severe limits in placement.
I do, but with a temperature tower. You get top and sides, curves and spanning, overhangs, and, well… temperature. _
Y’know just in general I really strongly recommend going all-metal or better bimetallic on your hot end? It cleared up so many problems for me. The Ender 3-series hotends really aren’t bad if you just back that PTFE up a bit.
I like this one (no affiliation other than I bought one) quite a lot, and I got it on sale so it was cheaper than the current price. But even at the current price I’d definitely say it’s still worth it.
If you’re willing to get into annealing, I’ve had good service from annealed HTPLA in high temperature/humidity and even overpressure environments. I’m three years into a build that gets multiple hours of use in such conditions a week and it’s held up fine. There have been other problems, but nothing related to bad behaviour out of the HTPLA.
oh that’s pretty great :D
When my house got electricity in 1924, they got a backlit front light for over the doorway. It wasn’t in good shape when we found it, but it was there, and I got it back together - except for the lighting. Which this really, really makes me want to fix now. :D
Nah, but I will print a temperature tower if it’s a new filament - even if it’s very similar to a filament I’ve had before. (As long as it’s not an identical replacement. If it’s an identical replacement and the previous isn’t ancient, I won’t even do that.)
Having done this, you can also get a “3D pen” that will work with your filament and that’ll work decently well for small areas, and you can also use it to fill in gaps. Overheat the PLA a bit and work fast.
Like you, I’ve got a little assortment of spools I either printed or modified for this purpose - and in different sizes - and they work great. I’m at the point of getting spoolless filament when I can and I haven’t seen a downside yet.
But if I’m going to get a new spool with my filaments, I’d prefer it be cardboard.
Yep, and that was like… the second thing I did for my printer. Since then I’ve gone to printing out of a warming box, but I still use the roller occasionally and I’m still glad I did it, it solved problems.
Oh wow, that looks hilarious, but in a fuck yeah you mad lad way. Is it the tower resonating or the part you’re printing? If it’s the tower I’d bet money you could solve the last of the problems with some kind of wall attachment for the tower. (Clip if you actually do haul it around, bracket if you don’t.)
I had similarly good luck with a height mod on my 3V2 but that thing has a lot more mass to it, I expected it to work. I would not have expected this to work.
I am running magnetic sheet on glass bed with magnetic layer and it works great for me. I get a lot of weird pushback from people but… yeah, it works fine. And you can swap out plates and keep the rigidity and thermal mass of glass. If you don’t want that then yeah, go straight to putting the magnetic sheet on the heating plate itself, but I’ve had heat-evenness issues and I like the extra thermal inertia so it solves problems for me.
I wrote it all up here if anyone wants to see details:
oh this is so weird. so very weird. look at this picture in particular. Look at the layers weaving up and down well before you get to the big ridges, when they still are… semi-normal. It’s not corner curl, it’s happening where the bottom is actually still flat. What the actual fuck.
Yeah, exactly this.
You could also make it more colourful safely for the moment by filling the letters with different colours of play-doh.
Yeah, if you actively like to tinker, the Ender 3 series will give you every opportunity. And sometimes will require it. xD (My 3V2 hasn’t really required it, but holy shit is it not stock anymore and I have learned a lot making it that way.)
Seriously though, the Ender 3 community and mods availability is unsurpassed. These things are truly the Model T of printers for both better and worse, and I’m glad I started here, it’s been educational as hell and that’s part of what I wanted. And it’s a bit of a hotrod at this point! Because I made it so. :D
Yeah replies are being a little odd for me too, sometimes I can reply from mastodon sometimes I can’t, I can generally reply from kbin, but kbin is super-new so I kinda expect it to be kinda flakey for a while? but I like it’s interface and can be patient.
Anyway, good luck!
If the extruder is clicking, it’s able to grasp the filament. It’s that it’s trying to move it forward, literally can’t, and it slips and makes that click. That also grinds down the filament at the wheel as well.
I’ve printed fine with eSun PLA+ on an Ender 3 V2, it’s a very straightforward filament in my experience. Not my favourite, but it’s fine. (Their cleaning filament by contrast is excellent and I recommend it highly.) I would take apart the entire filament path and make sure it is incredibly clean, because this really sounds to me like a recurring clog issue caused by some particulate matter, which can include extraheated filament hat no longer wants to melt right.
I build everything (including our homebrew media server) but for a NAS I still just bought a Synology box. Part of that is the main purpose of the box is to be a RAIDed repository for automatic workstation backups and I was willing to pay for a known-good turnkey device that talks to everything in the world right out the gate.
I haven’t regretted it once.
I’ve printed a couple of spools at different sizes, it’s really kind of nice to have them. Particularly smaller spools for smaller sample lengths, super worth it.
But another thing you can do is just print a little single-wall cylinder that friction fits inside one of your existing spools, then cut the existing (non-printed) spool in half down the middle and use the cylinder as a friction-fit sleeve to hold the two halves together. That also gives you the same functionality. It’s not as cool but it saves on filament? _